Paris 1900: The City of Entertainment

The Petit Palais is a special venue. Not only for the striking architecture and works of art within the building; on this occasion, it's history and relationship to new exhibition, 'Paris 1900 The City of Entertainment'. The Petit Palais (and the Grand Palais opposite) was built for 'L'exposition Universelle' in 1900; a world fair celebrating the achievement within machinery, architecture and invention; anticipating a prosperous future at the dawn of the 20th century. During this celebration, 50 million visited from France, Europe and across the seas, witnessing highlights such as the Eiffel Tower and newly built Metro underground.

The exhibition at Petit Palais covers many components of this era; introduced by advertorial posters, illustrations of the plans and the very first paintings of L'exposition Universelle, further enriched throughout the exhibition with the most significant forms of fashion, theatre, nightlife, and art of the era. The diverse range of objects on display allow you to truly immerse yourself; from a room of painting, leading to a room of furniture then fashion, each 'pavillion' offering a perfectly curated insight of stimulating content.

Art Nouveau was the prominent visual movement of the early 1900s and is interesting to see how characteristics were filtered into each aspect of Parisian life. From the swirling, hyper naturalistic Metro signs to the poster advertorials reflecting Pre-Raphaelite art for L'exposition Universelle; the style is distinctive and unique.

You can truly sense the excitement of Paris depicted in paintings during this era; showcasing the new buildings complete with the hustle and bustle of the crowds bringing each scene to life. From a fashion perspective, its also fascinating observing the typical dress codes contrasted with new architecture and visuals of Art Nouveau (which can be seen in the paintings below), composing a rich illustration of life in the early 1900s.

Narrow corridors link each of the 6 'pavilions' within the exhibition, a mirror along one side and video footage by the Luminere brothers (credited to be the first filmmakers in history) along the other. The film takes place on the streets of Paris during L'exposition Universelle, capturing both the density of the crowd in addition to individuals within the crowd as they flock past. The energy and excitement of Paris is perfectly expressed in the footage, with an additional curiosity of the newly developed video camera.

This is a wonderful exhibition, covering a wide range of compelling works of art celebrating the birth of the 20th century. There is nothing more satisfying than a well curated, sizable exhibition; the equivalent of a well written epic novel brimming with inspiration and stimulating content. If you, like myself, fall in love with Paris every time you return, this exhibition is a must see.

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Shopcade Style Council: Photographer & Judge

I'm pleased to announce that I will be one of the judges for June's Shopcade Style Battle. This will involve judging the entrants with the style council panel; including singer Kate Nash, celebrity hairstylist Lee Stafford and Editor in Chief of WEARECOLLISION Magazine.

The winner will recieve tickets to Wireless festival in addition to an exclusive photoshoot with myself to be published in the pages of WEARECOLLISION. There will be a party at the end of the month (in London) to celebrate and officially announce the winners.

I was invited to last months Style Battle party on the 5th June at private member's club Beat. It was a great event, with an insta-booth machine printing copies of #shopcadestylebattle instagram photos, delicious cocktails and a wonderful crowd. I came along with blogger and stylist @ithestylist after spending the day at an Olympus press event.

I'm looking forward to being involved as a style council member and shooting the winners- best of luck to all the entrants!

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Behind the Scenes: 'Light Years'

The concept 'Light Years' was inspired by S/S 14 beauty trends such as those seen below at Mui Mui and Holly Fulton. Nars international makeup artist Anna Priadka and I discussed that the sheer, glossy blues and purples would photograph beautifully under a selection of sci-fi-esque kaleidoscopic lighting to highlight both tone and texture.

Volt Magazine commissioned this as an online 'Volt Cafe' exclusive; a refreshing injection of S/S inspiration with a conceptual, cinematic aesthetic.

 

Click to view the shoot on Volt Magazine's website

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Setting the Mood: The Secret Behind Moodboards

As a photographer and creative director of most of my shoots I'm often involved in developing moodboards; a presentation of visuals and text to reflect the concept/ aesthetic of a brief. This stage is so important, not only for production value (proposing to publications, model agencies etc) but also to share full mutual understanding of the concept with the team.

It is advantageous as a fashion photographer to attain a level of knowledge in all aspects of fashion- most importantly styling, makeup and casting models. Luckily for me, I attended various short courses at LCF in makeup, styling and the history/evolution of fashion which have been beneficial when communicating and translating ideas with the creative team. I would never refer to myself a makeup artist or stylist based on this experience but dexterity of knowledge within the fashion industry is key.

Moodboards need to be in depth, clear and concise. I'm rarely fond of a single page moodboard as I feel its important to spread the layout over a couple of pages, enriched with visual references and accompanied by short, pertinent sentences. I'm fond of Microsoft Powerpoint or the equivalent 'Keynote' with my new Macbook Pro. Both programmes are simple and professional, containing all the necessary actions to create the perfect board.

I separate each creative component into individual pages; concept, styling, hair & makeup, lighting/ art direction, poses and models. If its a major editorial shoot or brand campaign, I will often devise a shoot plan in a similar style to the moodboard too, with each page hosting 2 shot ideas with visuals to elaborate. An example page from an editorial shoot plan is below.

Key benefits of allocating a full page per creative focus come into action on the shoot day. They are flexible to physically move back and fourth from prep room to shoot location; allowing the team to stay on point and are ideal to incorporate additional annotations if required- a black sharpie pen is perfect for this.

Most of my moodboards begin with a title page. Sometimes if I feel it's strong enough, I will include a title suggestion for an editorial, or if a S/S brand campaign for example I will simply call it ' (brand name) S/S Campaign'.

The moodboard images featured below are from my editorial shoot 'The Third Degree' for Stylenoir Magazine. I haven't included the page describing the concept (which would be featured directly after the title in a PDF presentation) or the page suggesting specific models.

If I had skills in illustration I would avoid using other photographer's imagery where possible, especially in the shoot plan. Film still references are great to broaden the horizon of inspiration in addition to face charts created exclusively by the MUA for the shoot.

Useful websites for Moodboards

Pinterest- Visuals

Pinterest is fantastic at the pre-moodboard stage- collecting a vast range of imagery relevant to each shoot brief. I'm often a little frivolous at this stage, pinning all images that may reflect the aesthetic/ mood (without too much thought) to be filtered down during the next stage; sub-conscious pinning as it were. You can also invite others to pin to any selected board and create a number of secret boards only be viewed by yourself and those invited. I'm an avid nocturnal pinner...

Style.com- Styling

Style.com contains a filtered selection of catwalk shows/lookbooks during fashion week season, ideal for Pinterest boards. I create 4 boards every season on Pinterest featuring my personal highlights from Milan, New York, Paris and London Fashion Week which are useful when putting boards together. I may even take it a step further and create a trend based sub board from the season as a whole, titled 'futuristic' or 'metallic' for example.

Models.com- Models

To stay in the loop of the current circuit of models, models.com contains all top agency packages from major fashion weeks in addition to top newcomer faces. I have folders on my Macbook and save the model's cards that particularly stand out for future reference.

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I hope this has been helpful, happy moodboarding!

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

'Gallery': Poem by Alice Luker

Immortalised from time now passed
Both life and death within it's grasp
Regardless of fiction or mythical story
It's frozen in time, a moment of glory.

Ample halls echo every sound and breath
Even silent noise of thought it met
We face our demons of mortal life
Wandering and wondering, facing personal strife.

For art is more than the touch of a brush
A room fulfils more in the moment of hush
Even silence of war can linger with us
It creates, it distorts, it transforms and adjusts.

Yet there may be light, a flicker of hope
No one on earth can fathom life's scope
Toying with reality; as we see things to be,
Yet does this mirage allow us to be free?

Alice Luker, 2013

Fyador Golan: The Next McQueen?

I was first introduced to the spectacular work of Fyador Golan at  London Fashion Week 2012; the design duo's conceptual yet visually stimulating designs proving to be one of my personal favourites from the season. As these designers reaching the tipping point of their career, they certainly offer a lot of promise for artistic greatness yet to come.

One particular quality which I feel that true conceptual artists display with their collections is the use of narrative- a real theme and story collectively showcasing a unique viewpoint each season. Each season acts as a new chapter-or in the case of McQueen (and I predict for Fyador Golan) - a new book entirely. 

From what we have seen so far, Fyador Golan has already offered us a true vision of a conceptual artist, proving that although fashion is a business, the perspective can still be visually stimulating and above all things, exceptionally inspiring. 

I feel that since the death of (in my opinion) our greatest conceptual artist/ designer of our time, we have a large fashion shaped hole still waiting to be filled. A designer offering equal levels of passion and talent, proving that they can create beauty and art in almost anything through the medium of design.

Perhaps this is who we are looking for, a designer glowing with passion and talent; so evocatively that success inevitably follows their every footstep. The V&A have showcased an immense spectrum of design talent over the past few years: from Craig Lawrence, Stephanie Rolland and Kenzo, each collection I have personally seen seems underlined with passion.

How do they do it? I personally feel that any creative- be it designer, stylist or in my case photographer; one must immerse themselves in culture, art and -secondly- in fashion. As stated on Fyador Golan's website 'behind the brand is a muse- gentle yet bold, sophisticated and explorer'. It seems that many successful designers (including McQueen) seem to abide by their ideals of an all important 'Muse'. One both determined yet ambiguous, constantly striving to be reborn season after season. 

www.aliceluker.co.uk

Dreams: Metaphor for the Making of Art?

With no surprise, my entire train journey from Ascot (my home town) to London tends to be very much phone related- either tweeting, emailing or texting...I usually end up depleting over a quarter of my Iphone battery in this time alone with many hours ahead to fuel.

With 10 minutes to spare before reaching Waterloo, I read a tweet from the National Gallery regarding a lunchtime talk focusing on dreams and visions in art. This talk acted as an introduction and taster of what is to come when a new exhibition opens this week in association with 'Seduced by Art'. For more information on this exhibition please click here.

 

Not only do I love art and painting on both a personal and professional level; the subject matter of this talk strongly related to the very reason why I began this blog. Art and photography attain the power to be as ambiguous yet as symbolically rich as desired- linking into this fantasy, dreamlike realm which can be so apparent in visual imagery- especially fashion.

In addition to confirming and expanding the knowledge I already have in this subject; I also learnt about Baroque art and the divine powers associated with the dream state which was fascinating. Before we reached the era of scientific evidence supporting dream studies (Sigmund Freud, REM sleep etc), dreams were looked upon as privileged, glorified messages; most often relating to messages from God.

Although this was all very interesting art history, what really inspired me and appeared so relevant to my position as a fashion photographer is the concept of dreams themselves. Dreams attempt to explain the surreal, yet at the same time are designed to be interpreted in a subjective manner; similar to the dream itself. They also leave us with the big question, what really is reality?

Contemporary fashion photography could arguably be more about hyper real fantasy than dreams; determined through both the content within the frame and the ever increasing techniques of post production. I personally believe that one of the key attributes and foundation of conveying a sense of a dream, vision or fantasy relates to the 'space of otherness' - something which can never fully be in reality, often appearing to be a fully conceptual construction.

On this note, I will leave you with a beautiful image by Tim Walker; unquestionably inspired by his personal depictions of the dream realm, inspired by childlike fantasy and unconventional conceptual visions. Having visited an exhibition at Somerset house focusing on Tim Walker's work, this quote seemed particularly fitting:

'The editorial spreads of a modern fashion magazine allow the photographer to construct fictive worlds, which unfold, page after page, like series of stills from unrealised films'.