Monday 17 December 2012

Valentino: Master of Couture at Somerset House


My latest exhibition trip was to Valentino: Master of Couture. With a designer and subject matter of such prestige and talent, I had high expectations of the show, especially to be gracing the rooms of Somerset House- the hub of London Fashion Week.

Amidst the fumes of fabulously dressed older women fragranced by Chanel No. 5, I was reminded of my time spent in Milano, the birthplace of Valentino. There is an unquestionable air of Italian craftsmanship in all of his pieces; whether it may be a zebra print 60s creation or an elegant little black dress, Italian refinement -like no other- is a distinct quality affiliating every one of his pieces.


In addition to number of letters, a video of Valentino and a fascinating insight to the production of his creations, the 'catwalk' was undoubtedly the key component of this exhibition. Over 100 of his pieces lined the walls of the rather long and narrow space. It was displayed in a very literal manner, with a small booklet offered with the numbers of the pieces and physical description as you weave your way around the crowds.


I do however feel that based of the title of the show 'Master of Couture' it would have been even more insightful to have more details of the 'catwalk' section in the booklet- perhaps a little more on the wearer of the dress, a quote or two or an image on the mannequin. I really do appreciate something to take home and treasure for many years to come.

This show would be of interest to a diverse spectrum; unifying to witness one of the most successful and accomplished couturiers in existence.

Whether it may be inspiration or aspiration, the fashion industry is one which continues to seduce, assembled by a provenance of desirable opposites- both realistic and unrealistic, attainable and unattainable- proving that dreams and visions will enchant our creativity and imagination for many years to come.



www.aliceluker.co.uk

Is all that we see or seem, but a dream within a dream? -Edgar Allen Poe

Saturday 8 December 2012

Fyador Golan: The Next McQueen?


I was first introduced to the spectacular work of Fyador Golan at  London Fashion Week 2012; the design duo's conceptual yet visually stimulating designs proving to be one of my personal favourites from the season. As these designers reaching the tipping point of their career, they certainly offer a lot of promise for artistic greatness yet to come.


One particular quality which I feel that true conceptual artists display with their collections is the use of narrative- a real theme and story collectively showcasing a unique viewpoint each season. Each season acts as a new chapter-or in the case of McQueen (and I predict for Fyador Golan) - a new book entirely. 

From what we have seen so far, Fyador Golan has already offered us a true vision of a conceptual artist, proving that although fashion is a business, the perspective can still be visually stimulating and above all things, exceptionally inspiring. 

I feel that since the death of (in my opinion) our greatest conceptual artist/ designer of our time, we have a large fashion shaped hole still waiting to be filled. A designer offering equal levels of passion and talent, proving that they can create beauty and art in almost anything through the medium of design.

Perhaps this is who we are looking for, a designer glowing with passion and talent; so evocatively that success inevitably follows their every footstep. The V&A have showcased an immense spectrum of design talent over the past few years: from Craig Lawrence, Stephanie Rolland and Kenzo, each collection I have personally seen seems underlined with passion.

How do they do it? I personally feel that any creative- be it designer, stylist or in my case photographer; one must immerse themselves in culture, art and -secondly- in fashion. As stated on Fyador Golan's website 'behind the brand is a muse- gentle yet bold, sophisticated and explorer'. It seems that many successful designers (including McQueen) seem to abide by their ideals of an all important 'Muse'. One both determined yet ambiguous, constantly striving to be reborn season after season. 

www.aliceluker.co.uk