Alexander McQueen ‘Savage Beauty’ at the V&A

Throughout history, an individual has emerges on occasion with extraordinary talent; visionaries as it were, whose ability to see beyond revolutionises and inspires the medium upon which they traverse- shifting the very perimeters of modern culture.

McQueen not only produced beautifully crafted designs but most importantly so, never failed to infuse with a breath of creative, intellectual underpinning. His collections were inspired by narrative, history, heritage and philosophy, with a reference to the duality ‘between life and death, happiness and sadness, good and evil’; aspects so poignant to humanity. He has become an immortalised entity, a godlike presence within the fashion world, much like the characters in history he so wondrously explored.

Much like an immortalised Da Vinci painting or grand Renaissance altarpiece, his work stirs something deep within when witnessed in person. In a way that fashion had never quite reached prior to his arrival, each collection feels as though one is looking into windows of his soul, exploring philosophical concepts through a pastiche of history; hidden within the seams of exquisite tailoring and theatrical grandiose.

Every detail is meticulously researched, for example, the purple corset in his ‘Dante’ collection (the author of ‘Divine Comedy, an allegorical vision of the afterlife in the 14th century) it’s soft purple tone deliberately selected as the colour of victorian half mourning. In his SS07 collection ‘Sarabande’, he featured a dress made of real flowers, their petals falling to the floor as their purpose has come to an end, much like fashion towards the end of each season and more philosophically, the transience of life itself- exploring the parallels of dark romanticism and his ‘romantic schizophrenic’ outlook.

McQueen also referenced the mundane, illustrated in his hyper theatrical SS01 ‘VOSS’ show featuring a razor-clam shell dress, the shells stumbled upon by McQueen himself along a beach in Norfolk. In ’The Girl Who Lived in a Tree’, the spectacular set centred upon a large twisted tree inspired by a 600 year old elm tree in the garden of his East Sussex home. In response to an interview question, his creative stimuli derives ‘from Degas and Monet and my sister in Dagenham’.

Whispers of homecoming echo amongst the fashion press for ‘Savage Beauty’; the retrospective originated by the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, following the entire breadth his illustrious career; from meteoric rise to melancholic end. This is without a doubt, the exhibition of the year. 

Jean Paul Gaultier at The Barbican

I had the pleasure of visiting one of London's latest, most anticipated fashion exhibitions last week'; 'The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk' at the Barbican. Organised by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and having already caused quite a stir in a number of museums, the all embracing irresistable legacy of Monsieur Gaultier appears to be stronger now than ever.

Collaborating with countless icons within fashion and music, Gaultier has claimed some of the most exalted and memorable moments of the 21st century, the most celebrated of which being the infamous cone bra for Madonna. He provided a breath of fresh air in the fashion industry at an opportune moment- when pop stars were dominating contemporary culture as the new 'icons' of society and when supermodels were household names. Fashion photography and film were becoming more developed, accessible and creative by the day; with Gaultier's vision fully embracing this.

If there was ever a fashion exhibition expressing the very epitome of  'feast for the eyes', this would be it!

'The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk' runs until 25th August at the Barbican...AND has its own cocktail bar!

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Fyador Golan: The Next McQueen?

I was first introduced to the spectacular work of Fyador Golan at  London Fashion Week 2012; the design duo's conceptual yet visually stimulating designs proving to be one of my personal favourites from the season. As these designers reaching the tipping point of their career, they certainly offer a lot of promise for artistic greatness yet to come.

One particular quality which I feel that true conceptual artists display with their collections is the use of narrative- a real theme and story collectively showcasing a unique viewpoint each season. Each season acts as a new chapter-or in the case of McQueen (and I predict for Fyador Golan) - a new book entirely. 

From what we have seen so far, Fyador Golan has already offered us a true vision of a conceptual artist, proving that although fashion is a business, the perspective can still be visually stimulating and above all things, exceptionally inspiring. 

I feel that since the death of (in my opinion) our greatest conceptual artist/ designer of our time, we have a large fashion shaped hole still waiting to be filled. A designer offering equal levels of passion and talent, proving that they can create beauty and art in almost anything through the medium of design.

Perhaps this is who we are looking for, a designer glowing with passion and talent; so evocatively that success inevitably follows their every footstep. The V&A have showcased an immense spectrum of design talent over the past few years: from Craig Lawrence, Stephanie Rolland and Kenzo, each collection I have personally seen seems underlined with passion.

How do they do it? I personally feel that any creative- be it designer, stylist or in my case photographer; one must immerse themselves in culture, art and -secondly- in fashion. As stated on Fyador Golan's website 'behind the brand is a muse- gentle yet bold, sophisticated and explorer'. It seems that many successful designers (including McQueen) seem to abide by their ideals of an all important 'Muse'. One both determined yet ambiguous, constantly striving to be reborn season after season. 

www.aliceluker.co.uk