Models of the Future: Part 1

When casting a model there are are considerable number of qualities to consider. Facial features (cheekbones, eyes, uniqueness etc), body proportions, confidence & ability, in addition to potential longevity in the industry. These elements may be easier said than done yet finding the strongest girl is fundamental to the level of success in a shoot. 

An editorial model -in a high end publication such as Vogue Italia- must be tall, unique and truly encapsulate that 'je ne sais quois' on camera. Confidence can develop with experience in regards to super fresh faces but looks wise, one in a million doesn't sound all too farfetched. Recent graduates of the breakthrough model clan include Liverpudlian Holly May Saker (below left), Holly Rose and Sam Rollinson (below right). 

I've recently been researching the next generation of model talent for an upcoming project, endlessly browsing sites including those of top London agencies including Elite, Models 1, Select, Next and IMG. I have found whom I believe to be a selection of serious breakthrough potential and would like to share my discoveries with you. 

Holly Lake @ Select

A prominent face in the 'sneak preview' section of Select Model Management's website, this girl has potential to be a real contender of fashion weeks in the future. Although she looks very young- which of course she is, I'm guessing 14/15- there is undeniable raw potential which I can envision flourishing over the next couple of years. Holly's sculpted cheekbones and piercing eyes, softened by rounded lips and quirky, editorial ears are promising features for success. 

There are only a couple of images on her profile but from what I can see, her versatility is already discernible- I would love to see her in the future with bleach blonde or jet black hair, she has the bone structure pull off almost anything.

Tia Shannon @ Models 1

I was first introduced to Tia Shannon by delightful booker Georgia Case, her femme fetale/Eva Green characteristics catching my eye as one of the leading new faces at Models 1. She is currently 5"8, with a couple more years to grow which will hopefully allow her to walk the main shows at fashion week. Models ideally need to be (aside from prime examples of Cara Delevigne, Kate Moss et al) 5"10 and over for high end catwalk. 

She has perfect slender proportions complimenting her look and an alluring confidence in front of the lens. Her face is both current and timeless, an ideal combination of model potential. 

Marli @ Premier

At 5"11, Marli is a strong competitor for both catwalk & editorial. She has beautiful eyes, looks great from all angles and is adorned with a cluster of freckles on her cheek to complete her 90s supermodel, Cindy Crawford-esque vibe.

Christina Gorbatyuk @ World Fashion Models, Russia

I would love to see Christina represented in London. She has a great look that the British fashion scene would fall head over their Louboutin heels for, with an editorial intensity and a slight 'English Rose' aesthetic; bitter sweet and totally mesmerising. 

What do you think? I would love to hear suggestions of girls you believe have serious breakthrough potential.  

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

ghd aura: Launch Night

Earlier this week, ghd launched their brand new aura dryer/ styling tool to press, offering demonstrations over glasses of champagne and music by the gorgeous DJ & model Daisy Lowe.

Having a personal hair regime of a shocking 10 minutes or less a day (consisting of washing/wetting and a strong dose of serum to refine my curly hair),  I was looking forward to witnessing the results. The Aura is quiet and precise, producing fantastic shine and volume. 20 minutes with the ghd team transformed my naturally curly hair into voluptuous bouncy waves- really quite impressive from dry.

The other key feature of the event was an exhibition of photographs encapsulating 'moments that changed the beauty world forever', in collaboration with fashion historian Amber Butchart. 

Highlights include a photograph of one of the first hair styling tools (with an aesthetic reflective of a torture instrument!) and photographs of celebrity icons including Veronica Lake and David Bowie, annotated with a short paragraph of their groundbreaking effect on contemporary culture.

The exhibition was fun and inspirational yet equally educational, reminding us of fundamental social history shaping the beauty industry into the thriving enterprise it is today.

From the infamous Avon lady visiting local residents during the war to Elizabeth Arden's participation to the suffragette moment, each photograph captures a compelling moment in British history.

The ghd Aura is available from 27th June at Selfridges stores and Selfridges.com

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Crosseyes London: A Revolution in Eyewear

It isn't often that I find myself writing about press days as I like to keep this blog quite consistent to my work, writing about what inspires me both professionally and personally without mimicking the seagull chorus from Finding Nemo of 'what I wore today' posts. Based on my outfit preference of jeans and a black polo neck, I couldn't imagine style posts written by myself being particularly enthralling anyway!

The press day I attended yesterday was unique, anticipating a revelation in the future of opticians and simplicity of hunting down a stylish, well priced pair of frames. Considering the brand is still relatively low key here in London, I feel the potential within the fashion industry is immense, set to entirely evolve the perspective of eyewear in the future to come.

The glasses are minimalistic yet quirky, perfect for those -including myself- looking for a pair that are bold without being to fussy; the perfect level of unique without resembling comedy caricature Dame Edna.

According to the CEO Søren Møller, there are a limited number of each unisex pair made- no more parading around the streets of London to find hundreds of others wearing identical, discernible Gok Wans!

The first Crosseyes store opened in 2010, with the intention of challenging the eyewear industry, which Søren found to be 'old fashioned and not very dynamic'.

In the short space of 4 years, there are now 6 stores across Denmark echoing it's success. 6 months since Crosseyes launched in London, Søren Møller explains that 'British customers really like the informal, relaxed atmosphere in our store and aim for 'everyone to be able to come in and find a pair of glasses that exactly underlines their personality', ideal for style conscious Londoners. 

The pricing structure is also rather ingenious and will leave even the biggest of brands wondering why they hadn't thought of it first. All frames in store are the same very reasonable price, with a clear & concise list of options for both the faux short sighted and authentic partially blind, like myself.

The team at the Crosseyes store in London (5 minutes walk from the Barbican tube) are a delightful, down to earth bunch, with a clear passion for the brand, an encouraging knowledge of the eyewear industry and a fresh inspiring perspective. I really do recommend a visit- they have a gorgeous selection of sunglasses too.

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Dries Van Noten at Les Arts Decoratifs

During my short visit to Paris last week I had a couple of hours here and there to visit exhibitions, one of which being the Dries Van Noten at Les Arts Decoratifs. This museum is one of my all time favourites; the Parisian parallel of the Victoria & Albert museum in London, conveniently situated next to the Louvre the central line 1.

Dries Van Noten as a designer isn't as globally known as the majority of designer retrospectives featured at Art Decoratifs including Madelaine Vionnet (queen of the 1920s empire line dress) and Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs, however as much as it is a showcase of the designer's work, the focus is centralised on the relationship between his collections and the inspiration leading to the final result presented on the catwalk.

My initial reaction was positive; a strong entrance to the show with a semi patent floral door to introduce his signature theme of hyper-real flowers & nature. Once inside, the show begins in a darkened room filled with names of models, photographers, pop stars etc of whom acted as inspiration to Dries in his early years of the 1970s/80s. The diversity of names featured, highlights the relevance of culture at this time, kick starting the ultimate focus of the exhibition, inspiration.

It takes a little while to suss out the layout and is worth making yourself familiar with this before wandering onwards to make the most of the show. Aside from the initial couple of rooms and final  room with a collage of catwalk videos, each cabinet features a selection of pieces from one of Dries' collections, contrasted with pieces by other designers (such as a Thierry Mulgar dress from 1978/79 in the middle of the gold/metallic room image below), paintings, film clips, graphic art and so on.

The juxtaposition of inspiration pieces next to Dries' collections is particularly fascinating, as you deconstruct the elements reflected in the clothing. Taking his Spring/Summer 09 collection as an example, he combined inspiration from 13th century art with contemporary optical art- enriched with sumptuous colour, crisp lines on the print and areas of curvature crafted within the piece itself.

Other themes featured in the exhibition include orientalism/ bollywood, high society, military, 'The Kiss' in Hollywood film and nature. Highlights include artwork by Damien Hirst and Francis Bacon in addition to film clips of 'The Man Who Fell to Earth' with David Bowie and 'A Clockwork Orange' by Stanley Kubrick; inspiration triggering his imagination throughout his life and career.

Although a little dark as I attempt to write notes (I could barely read my own writing afterwards), the curation forms a compelling show; leaving you feeling inspired and creatively energised from start to finish- a must see in Paris!

'Dries Van Noten: Inspirations' runs from March 1st- November 2nd 2014

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Paris 1900: The City of Entertainment

The Petit Palais is a special venue. Not only for the striking architecture and works of art within the building; on this occasion, it's history and relationship to new exhibition, 'Paris 1900 The City of Entertainment'. The Petit Palais (and the Grand Palais opposite) was built for 'L'exposition Universelle' in 1900; a world fair celebrating the achievement within machinery, architecture and invention; anticipating a prosperous future at the dawn of the 20th century. During this celebration, 50 million visited from France, Europe and across the seas, witnessing highlights such as the Eiffel Tower and newly built Metro underground.

The exhibition at Petit Palais covers many components of this era; introduced by advertorial posters, illustrations of the plans and the very first paintings of L'exposition Universelle, further enriched throughout the exhibition with the most significant forms of fashion, theatre, nightlife, and art of the era. The diverse range of objects on display allow you to truly immerse yourself; from a room of painting, leading to a room of furniture then fashion, each 'pavillion' offering a perfectly curated insight of stimulating content.

Art Nouveau was the prominent visual movement of the early 1900s and is interesting to see how characteristics were filtered into each aspect of Parisian life. From the swirling, hyper naturalistic Metro signs to the poster advertorials reflecting Pre-Raphaelite art for L'exposition Universelle; the style is distinctive and unique.

You can truly sense the excitement of Paris depicted in paintings during this era; showcasing the new buildings complete with the hustle and bustle of the crowds bringing each scene to life. From a fashion perspective, its also fascinating observing the typical dress codes contrasted with new architecture and visuals of Art Nouveau (which can be seen in the paintings below), composing a rich illustration of life in the early 1900s.

Narrow corridors link each of the 6 'pavilions' within the exhibition, a mirror along one side and video footage by the Luminere brothers (credited to be the first filmmakers in history) along the other. The film takes place on the streets of Paris during L'exposition Universelle, capturing both the density of the crowd in addition to individuals within the crowd as they flock past. The energy and excitement of Paris is perfectly expressed in the footage, with an additional curiosity of the newly developed video camera.

This is a wonderful exhibition, covering a wide range of compelling works of art celebrating the birth of the 20th century. There is nothing more satisfying than a well curated, sizable exhibition; the equivalent of a well written epic novel brimming with inspiration and stimulating content. If you, like myself, fall in love with Paris every time you return, this exhibition is a must see.

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Shopcade Style Council: Photographer & Judge

I'm pleased to announce that I will be one of the judges for June's Shopcade Style Battle. This will involve judging the entrants with the style council panel; including singer Kate Nash, celebrity hairstylist Lee Stafford and Editor in Chief of WEARECOLLISION Magazine.

The winner will recieve tickets to Wireless festival in addition to an exclusive photoshoot with myself to be published in the pages of WEARECOLLISION. There will be a party at the end of the month (in London) to celebrate and officially announce the winners.

I was invited to last months Style Battle party on the 5th June at private member's club Beat. It was a great event, with an insta-booth machine printing copies of #shopcadestylebattle instagram photos, delicious cocktails and a wonderful crowd. I came along with blogger and stylist @ithestylist after spending the day at an Olympus press event.

I'm looking forward to being involved as a style council member and shooting the winners- best of luck to all the entrants!

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Behind the Scenes: 'Light Years'

The concept 'Light Years' was inspired by S/S 14 beauty trends such as those seen below at Mui Mui and Holly Fulton. Nars international makeup artist Anna Priadka and I discussed that the sheer, glossy blues and purples would photograph beautifully under a selection of sci-fi-esque kaleidoscopic lighting to highlight both tone and texture.

Volt Magazine commissioned this as an online 'Volt Cafe' exclusive; a refreshing injection of S/S inspiration with a conceptual, cinematic aesthetic.

 

Click to view the shoot on Volt Magazine's website

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk

Setting the Mood: The Secret Behind Moodboards

As a photographer and creative director of most of my shoots I'm often involved in developing moodboards; a presentation of visuals and text to reflect the concept/ aesthetic of a brief. This stage is so important, not only for production value (proposing to publications, model agencies etc) but also to share full mutual understanding of the concept with the team.

It is advantageous as a fashion photographer to attain a level of knowledge in all aspects of fashion- most importantly styling, makeup and casting models. Luckily for me, I attended various short courses at LCF in makeup, styling and the history/evolution of fashion which have been beneficial when communicating and translating ideas with the creative team. I would never refer to myself a makeup artist or stylist based on this experience but dexterity of knowledge within the fashion industry is key.

Moodboards need to be in depth, clear and concise. I'm rarely fond of a single page moodboard as I feel its important to spread the layout over a couple of pages, enriched with visual references and accompanied by short, pertinent sentences. I'm fond of Microsoft Powerpoint or the equivalent 'Keynote' with my new Macbook Pro. Both programmes are simple and professional, containing all the necessary actions to create the perfect board.

I separate each creative component into individual pages; concept, styling, hair & makeup, lighting/ art direction, poses and models. If its a major editorial shoot or brand campaign, I will often devise a shoot plan in a similar style to the moodboard too, with each page hosting 2 shot ideas with visuals to elaborate. An example page from an editorial shoot plan is below.

Key benefits of allocating a full page per creative focus come into action on the shoot day. They are flexible to physically move back and fourth from prep room to shoot location; allowing the team to stay on point and are ideal to incorporate additional annotations if required- a black sharpie pen is perfect for this.

Most of my moodboards begin with a title page. Sometimes if I feel it's strong enough, I will include a title suggestion for an editorial, or if a S/S brand campaign for example I will simply call it ' (brand name) S/S Campaign'.

The moodboard images featured below are from my editorial shoot 'The Third Degree' for Stylenoir Magazine. I haven't included the page describing the concept (which would be featured directly after the title in a PDF presentation) or the page suggesting specific models.

If I had skills in illustration I would avoid using other photographer's imagery where possible, especially in the shoot plan. Film still references are great to broaden the horizon of inspiration in addition to face charts created exclusively by the MUA for the shoot.

Useful websites for Moodboards

Pinterest- Visuals

Pinterest is fantastic at the pre-moodboard stage- collecting a vast range of imagery relevant to each shoot brief. I'm often a little frivolous at this stage, pinning all images that may reflect the aesthetic/ mood (without too much thought) to be filtered down during the next stage; sub-conscious pinning as it were. You can also invite others to pin to any selected board and create a number of secret boards only be viewed by yourself and those invited. I'm an avid nocturnal pinner...

Style.com- Styling

Style.com contains a filtered selection of catwalk shows/lookbooks during fashion week season, ideal for Pinterest boards. I create 4 boards every season on Pinterest featuring my personal highlights from Milan, New York, Paris and London Fashion Week which are useful when putting boards together. I may even take it a step further and create a trend based sub board from the season as a whole, titled 'futuristic' or 'metallic' for example.

Models.com- Models

To stay in the loop of the current circuit of models, models.com contains all top agency packages from major fashion weeks in addition to top newcomer faces. I have folders on my Macbook and save the model's cards that particularly stand out for future reference.

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I hope this has been helpful, happy moodboarding!

Alice Luker
www.aliceluker.co.uk